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Hannah Kornbrath's travels in Costa Rica during Spring 2011

Monday, April 4, 2011

Quick update

Hey everyone,
Sorry I've been so behind on blog posts. Take it as a sign that I'm having too much fun to sit at my computer. I'm changing to week-by-week updates instead, because the day-by-day updates take me far too long. Don't worry, there will still be lots of photos. Love and miss you all.
~hannah
P.S. If you'd like an awesome postcard from Costa Rica, Facebook/email me your mailing address (kornbrathh@gmail.com).

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Feb. 13th: long hike in Corcovado

As I ate breakfast under the coconut palms this morning, I watched more Bare-throated Tiger Herons, Spotted Sandpipers, and some American Oystercatchers eating the tiny fish that landed on the sand with every crashing wave. Again, we could hear howler monkeys calling in the trees as we enjoyed our fresh pineapple and watermelon.
American Oystercatcher
Soon after breakfast, we began today's activity: a substantial hike through the wet lowland forest to a beach and back. The hike was 8 km (5 miles) each way, uphill and downhill, over rocks, tree roots, and fallen logs, and through the 95°F heat and humidity. It was quite a trek, but definitely worth it. I saw about 20 new birds, including Mealy Parrots, Blue-crowned Manakins, and a Black-throated Trogon.
Black-throated Trogon
Blue-crowned Manakin


Our lunch destination was a nice beach, and food plus a dip in the ocean was the perfect reward. We refilled water bottles in the spring nearby, then began the long trek back. Rebecca and I hiked together and saw more birds, leaf cutter ants, frogs, lizards, a snake, and a sloth. Awesome.
leaf cutter ants

leaf cutter ants

froggy
I was tired and sore when we got back to camp. I drank 4 liters of water that day. After dinner and hanging out with friends for a bit, we went to bed early.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Feb. 12th: research project in Corcovado

Today we split into groups and did mini research projects. We collected data in the morning, analyzed it and made a poster in the afternoon, and then presented our poster and findings after dinner. I had the best project: sitting on the beach watching pelicans. Our questions were, do juvenile, subadult, and adult pelicans spend different amounts of time fishing and do they have different success rates? We took turns watching a pelican in each age group for 30 minutes, counting how many dives it made and how many were successful. A successful fishing attempt was when a pelican swallowed whatever it caught in it's pouch/bill. Every hour, we also counted how many pelicans of each age group were sitting on rocks and how many were actively foraging. It was another hot, humid day, but we sat in the shade on the warm sand while a nice sea breeze kept the humidity at bay. I remained barefoot all day; it was fabulous.

Our analysis concluded that all age groups of pelicans were equally successful at catching fish, but the juvenile birds put in more effort. They were seen actively foraging the most, possibly because they need more food or are less efficient than adults because they haven't learned the proper technique. Indeed, we observed several juveniles splashing around comically and coming up empty-pouched. After our poster was finished, we cooled off in the ocean with our study subjects diving around us. New friends and I studied on the beach under the stars, and I went to bed excited for tomorrow's long hike through the rainforest.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Feb. 11th: orientation to Corcovado

This morning I awoke with the sun at about 5:45. I laid on top of my borrowed sleeping bag, listening to the ocean and a cacophony of bird calls. I had no hope of trying to identify the birds by sound; I only know some of the most common ones at home, here they are all completely new. It was already quite humid, and I was pretty awake, so I got up to check out the birds. I gathered my binoculars and field guide and wandered down the beach towards the creek. Two Bare-throated Tiger Herons fought over fish near the rocks and a Social Flycatcher built its nest in a tree overhanging the creek. Most of the pelicans were still resting on the rocks near the sand. I also saw a Cherrie's Tanager flitting about in the palm trees. Not bad for a 45 minute stroll before breakfast.
Bare-throated Tiger Heron
Social Flycatcher
Cherrie's Tanager
We ate breakfast (rice, beans, eggs, watermelon, and pineapple) at the picnic table outside, looking out at the ocean, with more howler monkeys calling in the trees. I received some good news about my missing bag; it had been found on the boat, and I would get it back eventually. Yay!

At 8:00, we converged on the grassy area with hiking shoes, water, and species books. We split into four groups to walk a short ways and learn about the diverse array of plants and animals in Corcovado National Park. There is a species report for each of the 200 species that I have to know. A species report consists of checking out a species, and one of our professors or a student giving a 5-15 minute shpeel on the species' (but sometimes just the genus) natural history. Today we did species reports on several plants and animals, my favorite of which was the Norops lizard. This genus is usually known as anole lizards. They are small and fast. Mature males have a colorful flap of skin on their chins called a dewlap, which they use to look sexy for the female Norops.
extending the male Norops' dewlap
This is definitely the coolest classroom ever. I get to see and touch and smell and experience the species I learn about in their natural setting. We're outside all day, immersed in tropical diversity. I don't know if my sense of awe at this place will ever wear off.

Lunchtime! We're lucky enough to have a team of cooks camping with us who cook and clean up after all our meals. This doesn't really feel like camping; I expected to have a chore list. I'm not complaining though. It's nice to not have to worry about that stuff. We can focus on enjoying the experience. Soon after lunch, we checked out the creek again. Lo and behold, there was the crocodile! Just chilling on the bank.
a little blurry...
I also saw my first trogon, a female Slaty-tailed Trogon, perched in the tree above the picnic table.

After lunch, we divided into groups again. While learning about more plants with Moncho, we watched a coati sniff around and then take a nap on a tree branch. Have I mentioned this is the coolest classroom ever?
Coatis are in the same family as raccoons
We finished with scheduled activities in late afternoon. Most of us decided to take the 30 minute hike to the waterfall to cool down in the creek. Before we left, we spotted some howler monkeys in the trees right above our camp. A couple of them had babies clinging to their backs.
At the waterfall
We returned from the waterfall hike in time for dinner. Later, I used the chilly outdoor showers while more howler monkeys called in the trees overhead. Best shower location ever. After some studying, we took the lanterns and some drinks to the beach. We chilled on the sand, talking and singing along with the people in the group who brought guitars. It was an awesome end to the day.


N.B. Some of these photos are mine, some are from friends, and some are from Google Images.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Feb. 10th: mangrove tour, boat to Corcovado

Today we sunscreened up and went out in boats on the Sierpa River to examine the mangrove forest. By the end of the semester, I'll know about 200 species of Costa Rican plants and animals; their family, genus, species, predator/prey for animals, pollinator/disperser for plants, and any other interesting facts. Every time the professors take us into the field, we take notes on a few more species. We learned about a lot of plants on the Sierpa River, all specially adapted to survive in brackish water and tidal changes.

Learning about the water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)


It was always a welcome respite from the humidity when the boats moved quickly. My shirt was damp with sweet for most of the morning, until we stopped at a swimming hole. However, we had to climb over Red Mangrove (Rhizophora mangle) roots to get there. It was like a giant jungle gym, with deep mud below. I felt like a little kid on the playground.


I love my sun/rain hat
Katie with a Red Mangrove Crab (Aratus pisonii)
Swimming in the river felt amazingly refreshing. So did speeding back to the dock in the boats. We had lunch at the hotel restaurant, then packed up for the 1.5-hour boat ride to our campsite for the next 6 nights. The four boats traveled down the river and then south along the coast to Corcovado National Park. I was worried I'd get seasick, but the boat moved fast enough that even the large ocean waves didn't bother me. Along the way, we saw a pod of pantropical spotted dolphins (Stenella attenuata) about 10 m from the boat.
the dolphins are underwater
Eventually, we arrived at our campsite, San Pedrillo, in Corcovado National Park. It's a popular tourist destination during the day, but we were the only group camping there, probably because it is only accessible by boat. It's a gorgeous beach, with the ocean only 10 m from the grassy area where we pitched our tents. A small, green building housed a kitchen, bathrooms, and picnic area. Behind the building, the tropical wet lowland forest proved a green backdrop.
the beach at San Pedrillo, just to the north of a small creek that flows into the river
looking up the beach at our tents
can you say, tropical paradise?
our classroom
As we unloaded the boats in the crashing surf, a flock of Brown Pelicans dove for fish all around us. I also spotted a Yellow-headed Caracara sitting on a rock. Soon after we gathered "all" our gear and waved goodbye to the boats, a pair of Scarlet Macaws (another for my top 17 list) and a Chestnut-mandibled Toucan landed in the trees above our campsite.
Brown Pelicans diving off the beach
Scarlet Macaws through my binos
Once my excitement about cool birds wore off, I looked for my bags. I found one, but the other containing my sleeping bag, pad, and toiletries was no where to be found. Apparently it never made it off the boat. Yeah... Luckily, the professors brought extra sleeping bags and pads, but I had to borrow contact lens solution and go without a toothbrush or deodorant. I did eventually get everything back...3 days later. Losing my bag sucked, but the incredible location more than made up for it. One of the best things about the campsite was its nearness to the ocean, which provided an excellent way to cool off from the 90-95°F heat and humidity. As soon as we finished setting up our tents, we went for a swim in the warm ocean. Unfortunately, the first wave hit me in the face and knocked off my sunglasses, which are still somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. First my bag, now my sunglasses.

Later, my tentmate, Rebecca, and I went for a walk in the freshwater creek just to the south of our camp. We saw a Green Heron, Green Kingfisher, and Boat-billed Herons. We also had a messy and fun mudfight with a few other people.
the creek near our camp
Before dinner at 6, we gathered on the beach to watch the sunset. I decided this is definitely paradise. Dinner consisted of more rice and beans, and cake for dessert. An hour after dinner we had an orientation lecture while howler monkeys called in the trees. Alan and Moncho warned us to always hike with hiking boots and a flashlight, and to not pick up any snakes. There are several venomous snakes in Costa Rica, but the most likely seen is the Fer-De-Lance. Like all venomous snakes, they want to save their venom for killing prey, so unless you're really bothering it, they won't attack humans.
fer-de-lance: don't touch
After dinner, a few of us walked down the beach to the creek to look for the crocodile that apparently hangs out near the mouth. We didn't see it, but we did see lots of walnut-sized hermit crabs (Coenobita compressus). They seem to enjoy coconuts; about 30 would swarm around one broken coconut, crowding around to eat the fleshy fruit.

Later, we all sat around the picnic tables on the porch, making flashcards and studying the species by lantern light. Moths, flies, large cicadas, and other insects buzzed around our lights. If a particularly interesting insect flew by, we'd stop studying for a few minutes to check it out and try to identify it. I love that the other 29 students on this trip are as fascinated and excited by the natural world as I am. Sure, my friends at home tolerate my inner biology nerd, tease me a little, and maybe even think it's kind of cool, but it's more fun when others can share in my excitement.

cicada (Fidicina mannifera)

Feb. 9th: traveling, Cartago, Cerro de la Muerte, and Sierpa

We woke up pretty early to pack the bus: our large duffle bags went on a truck bound for Monteverde, while our daypacks and smaller bags came with us on the charter bus. After breakfast, we boarded the bus and finally left the city. The scenery changed from crowded streets and building to fields and scrubby forests interspersed with tin-roofed dwellings. We stopped in Cartago, where the most famous church in Costa Rica stands- Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles. Many pilgrims journey to the Basilica each year to drink the natural spring's holy water and ask the Virgin of the Angels to heal them.
the Basilica
inside the Basilica, all of the wood is mahogany
the location of the holy spring

Our next stop was Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of Death) to experience a high elevation (3000 m) wet forest. We walked up the trail a short way, stopping in a clearing to hear about several plant species and páramo habitat. The páramo consists of scrubby vegetation and grasses above the tree line. We also searched unsuccessfully for the mountain salamander (Bolitoglossa subpalmata). Back down the trail, we had lunch at the small tourist restaurant. I watched Green Violet-ear, Purple-throated Mountain-gem (my first top 17!), and Magnificent hummingbirds from the windows.
Alan lectures on the Black Oak (Quercus costaricensis)

Back on the bus, the scenery changed from high to low altitude vegetation. Even though it was too bumpy to use my binoculars, I was able to spot the distinctive silhouette of a swallow-tailed kite.

Our next stop was a pineapple field, where we learned about the biology and agriculture of this domesticated bromeliad (a member of the Bromeliaceae plant family). I learned why it sometimes hurts your tongue to eat pineapple: the fruit's center contains meat-tenderizing properties, which breaks down the tongue muscle. If you simply avoid the pineapple's center, you can avoid a tenderized tongue. We also sampled some of the fresh, juicy crop.
check out all those Ananas comosus
baby pineapple
om nom nom

We finally arrived in the tiny town of Sierpa after dark. Our hotel was...rustic. Alan warned us that flushing toilet paper would jam up the sensitive septic system. The showers randomly stopped working for a couple hours, and then would flip-flop rapidly between a drizzle and a downpour. However, the open-air restaurant was very tasty. We stayed in the restaurant for a lecture in preparation for tomorrow's mangrove tour. The professors let us order a drink from the bar, so we took lecture notes while enjoying cervesas in the warm night air and listening to geckos chirp.

Friday, February 25, 2011

Many updates to come in the next few days

I'm now in Monteverde at the Biological Station. The two week field trip was amazing, we went to some incredible places and saw some really cool species. My favorite moment of the trip was cooling off in a freshwater creek with friends right near the ocean, then sitting on the rocks and watching the sunset while howler monkeys, spider monkeys, and white-faced capuchins foraged in the trees overhead and scarlet macaws flew by. I'll be making posts for each day of the field trip in the coming days, so stay tuned.